Wrapped in Tradition, Filled with Purpose

 

In the quiet town of San Enrique, Negros Occidental, the scent of panara and empanada carries more than just the promise of a good meal—it carries the story of a family, a community, and a legacy that spans more than half a century. Rene and Sylvia de los Santos, married for 31 years, have built their lives around the native food that has sustained generations. For Rene, the connection to this culinary tradition began before he was even born. His mother, Vilma, a home economics teacher from Iloilo, was already crafting lumpia, panara, and empanada while pregnant with him. When she moved to San Enrique after marrying his father, she brought her recipes with her and started a business that would become the heartbeat of their family.

Empanadas are a well-loved crescent-shaped snack, typically filled with pork, beef, chicken, or vegetables. A tasty twist on this is known as panara, which features a savory mix of bean sprouts, pork, and shrimp. Lumpia, on the other hand, resembles a spring roll. 

Rene learned to make panara while still in his mother’s womb—literally.

Rene, the eldest of six siblings, stepped into his mother’s shoes when she suffered a stroke. From his elementary school days, he was already helping wrap the products that would later fund his education and that of his siblings. Today, the business—now named Vilma’s Native Food—is 54 years old, just like Rene. It has sent not only his siblings to school but also Rene and Sylvia’s own four children, who have graduated from college and are now professionals.

 The food they make is more than just sustenance. It’s a symbol of identity. The panara of San Enrique has a distinct taste that locals recognize instantly. Rene proudly shares that his mother’s recipe has never changed. Every day, the family produces around 300 panaras and 250 empanadas, sometimes more when orders come in. During peak seasons, like November and December, especially around All Saints’ Day, production can reach up to 6,000 pieces, with ubod (heart of palm) sourced from nearby towns like Ilog, Kabankalan, and Cauayan.

Rain or shine, hundreds of panaras and empanadas roll out daily from San Enrique. 

Their products travel far, reaching vendors in the capital city of Bacolod. These vendors, many of whom are mothers, get their own household's source of income selling Vilma’s Native Food. Rene and Sylvia are careful to keep prices affordable because they understand that their success is intertwined with the success of their vendors. “We rely on the vendors, and they rely on us,” Rene says. “Our work helps a lot of people.”

Despite lean months like August, the couple continues to cook daily, taking breaks only for New Year’s and Holy Week. Their location at the major San Enrique highway makes them easily accessible, and their consistency has earned them a loyal customer base. While many of their cooks have branched out to start their own businesses, Rene and Sylvia remain committed to their craft, involving family members in the process and passing down knowledge to the younger generation just as Rene’s mother did with him.

Vilma’s Native Food: where every bite tells a story.

The story of Vilma’s Native Food is not just about delicious panara and empanada. It’s about heritage, resilience, and shared prosperity. It’s about a family that turned a mother’s recipe into a community lifeline. And it’s about ensuring that as they thrive, everyone around them thrives too.

 

Article by: Leezo Dionzon

Photos by: Paolo Correa